Is Patek 5990 a Good Investment?
Like the other watches in the Nautilus collection, the Patek Philippe 5990 embodies master craftsmanship, timeless designs, and luxury sophistication. Patek unveiled this watch in 2014, and it has since become one of the most sought-after Patek Philipe watches in recent years.
Buying any Patek Philippe Nautilus timepiece is almost always a good idea. The Nautilus collection has been Patek’s best-seller since the 1970s. Not only are they extraordinarily well-made and iconic, but many models in this collection are renowned for their rarity and desirability, which is why they always perform excellently in the secondary market.
The Nautilus 5990/1A is no exception; this marvel of horological sophistication is both sporty and stylish. It offers precise timekeeping in a sleek and elegant casing with useful complications, making it an ideal companion for the modern watchlover. In this post, we will explore some of the most impressive features of the Patek Philippe 5990 to determine whether or not this timepiece is worth buying.
Affordable Complication
The Nautilus collection doesn’t have a lot of complicated timepieces. The collection is impressive enough, but things get even more interesting when Patek decides to throw some complex horological features into the mix.
The Patek 5990 was introduced as the successor to the Nautilus 5980. Its predecessor only had a chronograph functionality, but the watchmaker has pushed things further by adding a dual-time zone functionality to the ref 5990. This new feature makes the watch a perfect travel watch for the modern globe-trotter.
On the dial, the timepiece has four complications (chronograph, date, day/night indicator, and travel time) arranged neatly to preserve the dial’s legibility. The dual time is displayed at the center, while the date window is in a subdial located at the 12 o’clock position. The date is synchronized to the local time and changes at midnight.
The Nautilus 5990 also has day and night indicators located just above its center axis. The day/time indicator for the local time is at 9 o’clock, while that for the local time is at 3 o’clock. The display takes on a blue color in the evening, turning white in the daytime. Situated at six o’clock is a counter with a central seconds hand that displays the chronograph functionality of the timepiece.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 isn’t necessarily the most complex Nautilus timepiece. That title goes to the Nautilus 5740, which has a date, month, year indicator, a Moon phase tracker, and a Perpetual calendar. However, the Patek Philippe 5990 comes a close second. Impressively, this watch is only sold for half the price of the 5740. Buying this watch allows you to own a true rarity (a complicated Nautilus timepiece) for an affordable price.
Impressive Aesthetics
The aesthetics of this watch is another reason why it is worth buying. At first glance, the Patek 5990 doesn’t look particularly different from other Nautilus models. However, Patek introduced subtle changes to this model that became apparent after closer inspection.
For instance, the steel casing of the Nautilus 5990 is larger and thicker than its predecessor. Yet, Patek has managed to keep the timepiece compact and slim even for a watch with so many sporty complications. While the addition of the dual-time zone mechanism added up to 47 extra parts to this watch, the Philippe Nautilus 5990’s movement is only 0.3mm thicker than the 5980.
The black gradient dial is also quite alluring, featuring the signature embossed pattern that has become standard in Nautilus Patek Philippe watches. The Nautilus 5990 has one of the most impressive steel bracelets in the watchmaker’s catalog. The bracelet has beautifully finished polished edges, while the center-liks have a mirror-like finish with carefully brushed sides. The bracelet is so impeccably finished and matches nicely with the mixed finish of the casing.
A closer inspection also shows that the bracelet gently tapers down to its fold-over clap, which is designed to be secure and practical. For the avid luxury watch lover, there’s something about the overall aesthetics of this timepiece that just exudes class and luxury.
All-new Movement
Not every day, you see a timepiece with an entirely new movement. The usual practice in the horological world is simply creating a new case design for an existing movement. However, Patek Philippe had to create a new movement to make room for the combination of complications in this watch. It is worth noting that while these complications are not new in themselves. However, this was the first time Patek combined this way, hence the need to create an entirely new movement.
The new caliber CH 28-520 C FUS used in the Ref 5990 nautilus has the same base as the caliber in the 5980 movement. It has a chronograph mechanism featuring an innovative disk clutch and a column wheel design.
Patek Philippe further updated the design of the chronograph function in this watch by converting the Mono counter of the earlier model to a 60-minute timer. For the dual time zone functionality in the 5990, Patek Philippe borrowed some inspiration from the 5164A Aquanaut. The dual-time function also has an advanced design that makes it possible to adjust the local hour hand by one-hour increments. This function was created by Patek as far back as 1959, adding a classic touch to the highly modern design of this Nautilus watch.
A Versatile Everyday Piece
Part of what makes any timepiece a valuable investment is how wearable it is. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5990 ticks several boxes as far as the ultimate utility Patek Philippe is concerned.
This timepiece is durable for everyday wear as a stainless steel Patek watch, from school runs to social gatherings. It sits proudly on the wrist and is sleek enough to complement most outfits without getting in the way.
Patek only produced stainless steel watches for the Ref 5990 collection for the longest time. However, seven years after the timepiece made its debut, Patek introduced a rose gold version, likely motivated by the rising demand for Patek Philippe watches with a more sophisticated appearance. The rose gold has a luxurious appearance, making it perfect for watch enthusiasts who prefer loud and proud aesthetics.
In addition to being such a solid watch, the Nautilus Ref 5990 also has useful complications with real utility on a day-to-day basis. People who travel a lot or need to conduct business across multiple time zones will find the dual-time functionality of this watch even more useful.
Pricing Performance
The ultimate test of the investment potential of any timepiece is how well it has performed over the years. When the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 entered the market in 2014, it was sold at less than $40,000, an incredibly affordable price for a complicated steel Nautilus timepiece.
It’s extremely difficult to find a new Patek Philippe 5990 in the market from official retailers today. And it is even more difficult to find a Patek Philippe 5990/1R. The main way to buy this watch is on the secondary market, currently listed at an average price of about $88,000. You can find models that are as cheap as $56,000, while the most expensive ones cost up to $160,000.
Analyzing the price history of this watch, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 seems like a solid investment piece. In recent years, there has been rising demand for Patek Philippe’s sportier models. As a result, many watches in the Nautilus line have gained even more value, with the 5990 being one of the beneficiaries of this price climb.
The price gain is one of the reasons why this timepiece has become highly sought-after by collectors. It’s great news for anyone looking to sell a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990, and given its current trajectory, it will only get better in the future.
Conclusion
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 is no doubt an attractive and versatile package. Such an elegant and useful watch from one of the biggest names in the luxury watchmaking industry deserves a place on every watch lover's wish list. As an investment piece, this timepiece has already shown great value retention compared to other watches from Patek and other luxury watchmakers. In years to come, we expect this watch to remain in demand and consolidate its place as one of the iconic Nautilus models.